Pattern Designing and Fabric Cutting

Pattern designing and cutting of fabric materials is the process of creating and shaping the pieces of fabric that will form the garment. It involves drawing the design on paper or using a computer software, and then transferring it to the fabric by cutting, tracing, or marking. The pattern design should take into account the style, fit, and measurements of the garment, as well as the fabric type, characteristics, and print.

Some of the factors that influence the pattern designing and cutting of fabric materials are:

– The fabric type and quality: Different fabrics have different properties, such as weight, stretch, drape, texture, and print. These affect how the fabric behaves and how it should be cut and sewn. For example, fabrics with nap or pile, such as velvet or corduroy, need to be cut in one direction to avoid shading or unevenness. Fabrics with asymmetrical prints, such as stripes or plaids, need to be matched and aligned at the seams to create a harmonious look.

– The fabric grain: The fabric grain is the direction of the threads that make up the fabric. There are three types of grain: lengthwise, crosswise, and bias. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric), the crosswise grain runs perpendicular to the selvage, and the bias grain runs diagonally to the selvage. The grain affects how the fabric stretches, shrinks, and hangs. The pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric according to the grainline marked on them, which indicates the direction of the lengthwise grain. This ensures that the garment will have a consistent shape and drape.

– The fabric layout: The fabric layout is the arrangement of the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. The layout should optimize the fabric usage and minimize the waste. The layout also depends on the fabric type, grain, and print. For most fabrics, the fabric can be folded in half, usually lengthwise along the grain, and the pattern pieces can be placed on the double layer of fabric. This allows cutting two pieces of fabric from one pattern piece. However, some fabrics need to be cut in a single layer, such as fabrics with nap, pile, or asymmetrical prints. The pattern instructions usually provide a suggested layout for different fabric widths and types, but the layout can be adjusted to suit the fabric and the design.

Some of the best practices for pattern designing and cutting of fabric materials are:

– Use the right tools and equipment: To design and cut the fabric accurately and safely, it is important to use the appropriate tools and equipment, such as scissors, rotary cutter, ruler, tape measure, pins, chalk, marker, tracing paper, tracing wheel, pattern weights, cutting mat, and cutting board. These tools should be sharp, clean, and well-maintained to avoid damaging the fabric or causing injuries.

– Prepare the fabric before cutting: Before laying out and cutting the fabric, it is advisable to prewash, dry, and press the fabric to remove any dirt, shrinkage, or wrinkles. This ensures that the fabric will have the same dimensions and appearance after sewing as before cutting. It is also recommended to check the fabric for any flaws, such as holes, stains, or runs, and mark them to avoid cutting or sewing over them.

– Follow the pattern markings and notches: The pattern pieces have various markings and notches that indicate important information, such as the grainline, the center front and back, the seam allowance, the dart points, the fold line, the hemline, and the placement of buttons, zippers, pockets, etc. These markings and notches should be transferred to the fabric by cutting, tracing, or marking, and followed carefully during cutting and sewing. They help to align and join the fabric pieces correctly and achieve a professional result.